Beginner's Tank Painting Guide

Hey everyone.  Recently, a member of my club asked for some help in painting German armor without an airbrush.  He liked the way I painted my late war Panzer IV G, so I wrote a detailed step by step process to help him.  While the instructions cover German armor, they could be followed for pretty much any nation with a few substitutions.  Eg. For Americans, you would just need to use the Sherman Drab spray and Strong Tone for Pin Wash.  Enjoy!

Bonus Joe’s Pz4 Recipe

This is a basic guide to quick and easy painting a camo-less Mid/ Late War German vehicle without an Airbrush.  This is actually a pretty quick process, I just laid it out in detail.  This guide does not require ability or technique, just time and patience.  I will not go into how to do any of the simple techniques used as a short Youtube video will be much more helpful.  Make sure to thin your paints, as several thin coats will look much better than one thick coat.  Make sure to allow adequate drying in between steps.  Try not to touch the model through the process.  If you do, touch the tracks as the weathering will cover up any blemishes.  If you take your time and make sure to do all touch ups, your tank will come out Above Table-Top Standard.  The products used are personal preference based on previous experience.  Substitute at your own risk.

1. Wash all parts in soap and warm water.  Dry, then assemble.  If a plastic kit use this opportunity to add weight inside the model if you desire.  Also, research the color of your tracks.  If black/ steel, do not attach.  Antenna can be added using a microdrill and guitar wire.  Since you are doing a mono paint scheme I strongly advise adding stowage to break up the color and make your model more interesting.  My recommendation: Rubicon’s German or US stowage, as the plastic has great detail and is easy to work with.  Look at photos to see what was used and how to realistically place it.

2. Once assembled give the model a very light primer coat.  I prefer Tamiya Fine primer for this step.  Wait to dry.  Then spray the entire Pz4 with Flames of War Panther Yellow Spray (PAD sells it).  Your match for this spray is Vallejo Middelstone.  Spray your tracks black.
3. Wait for base coat to be completely dry (don’t want finger prints) Then touch up any missed spots with Middelstone. Paint your roadwheels.

4. Pin Wash the entire model (except the black portions of the tracks) with Army Painter Soft Tone.   Hit every little rivet, line, dimple.  The lines don’t have to be perfect, but it is important you get everything.  This will make a big difference in the end.

5. Base paint all stowage, MGs, etc.  Paint MGs black initially.  Lightly drybrush the Tracks and MGs with GW Leadbelcher.

6. Attach your tracks

7. Wash any stowage that you basecoated a different color.

8. Decide if you want/ need to highlight.  Mine is not highlighted.  The pin wash did enough for the shadows and variation.  If you do, just edge highlight.  Otherwise, find another guide that will cover the level of detail you are looking for.

9. Give a light gloss coat to the entire model.  I use Testors Gloss.  Allow to dry.

10. Apply decals using Microset and Microsol.  There are some good short Youtube videos on how to use these products.  DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP.  Decals are going to make your tank go from OK to GREAT.  The Microsol makes the decals look as if they are painted on.

11. Once the Microsol has had enough time to work, spray another light Gloss coat.  Allow to dry.

12. Sponge chip the entire model except the tracks and stowage that would not be painted.  I use a natural sponge from Walmart’s craft section.  This tank I used Vallejo Luftwaffe Uniform.  I have started using Vallejo Black Brown for chipping based on Andy Singleton’s recommendation.  You are doing this on the gloss coat because if you go overboard you have a small window you can wipe it away.  Also, you want to always chip after decals because those areas would be chipped to.

13. Light Matte coat the entire model.  After suffering with many brands I have had the best success with Testor’s Dullcoat.  Matte coat can be very dangerous.  4 thin coats is much better than 1 thick one.

14. Apply a thin coat of GW’s Typhon Corrosion to the tracks, mufflers, and any other metal parts you want to show wear.  Skip if you are looking for a newer look.  This Pz 4 G is supposed to have been around awhile.

15. Lightly drybrush GW Ryza rust to areas you used the Typhon Corrosion.  Again, only if you want the old warhorse look.

16. Apply wearing powders to the whole tank to achieve the level of weathering desired.  Start light, it is much easier to apply more.  Save black for exhaust and around that area as it will provide a good contrast.

17. Apply Tamiya’s Mud stick to tracks, roadwheels, edges, mudskirts, etc.  Again, start light and add as desired.  It will apply very easily so be careful not to over do it.  Some parts it will be impossible to get the mud stick to reach.  I use  a toothpick and scrape some off the stick and apply it on the tank.  You can also rub the mud with your fingers to change the look, just watch for fingerprints.

18. Apply a second, light Matte coat.  Allow to completely dry.  Apply additional matte coats until satisfied.


That’s it!  You’ll notice a lot of this will go very fast and I just broke it up for explanation.  If you have any questions, post them below.